Cable and Seed sock

Standard

Toe up pattern with a short row heel. The pattern can be worked cuff down with a different heel without it affecting the pattern.

YARN – Heritage solid by Cascade Yarns

NEEDLE – 0/2mm, I use 2 circulars but you you can use double points if you prefer

GAUGE – 8st = 1″ in stocking knit stitch

SIZE – size 9/10 shoe, the size can easily be adjusted by going up a size of needle or adding extra stitches to the seed stitch sections.

Abbreviations:

k – knit
p- purl
kb – knit in the back of the loop
m1 – Make 1 stitch: Insert left needle, from front to back, under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through back loop.
1 stitch increased.
SRW – slip 1, bring yarn forward, move slipped stitch back to left needle, move yarn to back

Seed stitch
round 1: k1 p1 k1
round 2: p1 k1 p1

Cable Abbreviations

c3bp – sl p to back , k2, p1 from cable needle; cable w/o cable needle – sl 3 sts from left to right needle, insert left needle into 1st purl stitch from the back, k sts will drop pick them up in front with the right needle and place on left needle, k2, p1 from left needle.

c3fp – sl 2 sts and hold in front, p1, k2 from cable needle; cable w/o cable needle – sl 3sts from left to right needle, insert left needle in 1st 2 st slipped from the front, purl st. will drop in back, pick p st with right needle and place on left, p1, k2.

C4bp – sl 2st and hold in back, k2, p2 from cable needles; cable w/o cable needle – sl 4 st from left needle to right, from back insert left needle into the 2 p st slipped onto right needle, sl all 4 st off right needle picking up the 2k st dropped from the front with the right needle, place the 2k st picked up back on the left needle, k2, p2.

C4fp – sl 2st and hold in front, p2, k2 from cable needles; cable w/o cable needle – sl 4 st from left needle to right, from front insert left needle into the 2k st slipped onto right needle, sl all 4 st off right needle picking up the 2p st dropped from the back with the right needle, place the 2p st picked up back on the left needle, p2, k2.

C4f – sl 2st and hold in front, k2, k2 from cable needles; cable w/o cable needle – sl 4 st from left needle to right, from front insert left needle into the first 2k st slipped onto right needle, sl all 4 st off right needle picking up the 2k st dropped from the back with the right needle, place the 2st picked up back on the left needle, k4.

C4B – sl 2st and hold in back, k2, k2 from cable needles; cable w/o cable needle – sl 4 st from left needle to right, from back insert left needle into the first 2k st slipped onto right needle, sl all 4 st off right needle picking up the 2k st dropped from the front with the right needle, place the 2st picked up back on the left needle, k4.

Seed and cable Chart – sorry there is no key but you can probably figure it out with the below instructions. I used a free chart maker program and it had no bells and whistles. As soon as I get my sock pattern software I will repost this pattern all cleaned up and pretty 😉

Seed and cable pattern (24st)
row 1 – p2, k2, p6, k4, p6, k2, p2
row 2 – p2, C3fp,p4, C3bp, C3fp, p4, C3bp, p2
row 3- p3, k2, p4, k2, p2, k2, p4, k2, p3
row 4 – p3, C4fp, C4bp, p2, C4fp, C4bp, p3
row 5 – p5, k4, p6, k4, p5
row 6 – p5, C4B, p6, C4f, p5
row 7 – p5, k4, p6, k4, p5
row 8 – p3, C4bp, C4fp, p2, C4fp, C4bp, p3
row 9 – p3, k2, p4, k2, p2, k2, p4, k2, p3
row 10 – p2, C3bp, p4, C3fp, C3bp, p4, C3fp, p2
row11 – p2, k2, p6, k4, p6, k2, p2
row 12 – p2, k2, p6, C4f, p6, k2, p2

If you are doing two at a time you will need two balls of yarn. Cast on 10 stitches on each needle (20 total) using the Magic Loop Method or Figure 8 (scroll down half the page) or whatever toe up cast on works for you.

Toe increases:

*k1, m1, k8, m1, k1* around both socks. 4st. added per sock
*k1, m1, k10, m1, k1* repeat around socks, 4 st added per sock
*k1, m1, k12, m1, k1*repeat around socks, 4 st added per sock
repeat pattern until there are 40 st total per sock
Now:
knit 1 row even
*k1, m1, k to last stitch on section, m1, k1* repeat around both socks
repeat the above two rows until there are 68 st/sock

Pat yourself on the back…you are done with the toe!

Instep:

round 1 – 3sts row 1 of seed stitch, 2kb, work row 1 of cable pattern, 2kb, 3 sts row 1 of seed stitch, k34.
round 2 – 3st row 2 of seed stitich, 2kb, work row 2 of cable pattern, 2kb, 3sts row 2 of seed stitch, k34.
repeat continue in pattern until sock reaches the beginning of your heel…for my size 10 foot it was 4 repeats of cable pattern and then through row row 6 of cable pattern. End ready to begin the 34k sts of the foot.

Short row Heel:

Begin working back an forth on one sock at a time…if you know how to work both heels simultaneously please share!

row 1 – slip 1st (minimizes the gap when returning to work in the round), k 31, SRW, turn
row 2 – p30, SRW,  turn
row 3 – k29, SRW, turn
row 4 – k28, SRW, turn
repeat working one less st each row until there are 8 unworked stitches for the center of the heel. (if you have a wider/narrower heel work less/more sts as needed). the last row worked will be a purl row.

Turn heel:
next row – sl1, k20, *pick up wrap on st and knit together with st*repeat to end of wrapped sts, turn
next row – sl 1, p20, *pick up wrap on st and purl together with st* repeat to end of wrapped sts, turn
next row – k20, SRW, turn
next row – p8, SRW, turn
next row – k8, pick up wrap and k together with st, SRW, turn
next row – p9, pick up wrap and p together with st, SRW, turn
repeat working one more st each row before SRW until all wrapped stitches have been worked.

if working two socks on 2 circulars…knit across all back stitches and work second sock’s short row heel. At the end of the second sock’s heel, again knit all back stitches and get ready to work in the round again.

Calf:

Note, in order to minimize the gap created between the front and back of the sock when rejoining int he round, pick up one st between needles and knit together to the back (twists the st to fill in the gap better). I find it best to pick up so that the k 2 together through the back is on the back of the sock stitches. I hope all the makes sense!

K across the front of the sock continuing in pattern established, back of the sock work in stocking knit stitch until you are ready to begin round 1 of cable pattern on the front of the sock then establish the pattern:

row 1- 3sts row 1 of seed stitch, 2kb, work row 1 of cable pattern, 2kb, 3 sts row 1 of seed stitch
row 2 – 3st row 2 of seed stitch, 2kb, work row 2 of cable pattern, 2kb, 3sts row 2 of seed stitch

I worked about 1.5 inches and then increased the seed stitches so that there were 5 st  of seed stitch on either end of the needle for a total of 10 seed stitches instead of 6 on each side panel of the sock. This is not necessary if you have a narrow calf, simply try it on after you work the ankle area and see if the pattern is getting a little too stretched, if so add a one seed stitch to each side of needle. After a few more rounds you can add more seed stitches as needed. That’s the nice part of doing toe up socks is you can really customize the fit as you go and when the pattern allows.

Work to desired length and then change to a k2p2 rib cuff or whatever cuff you like! I like the sewn bind off to allow for enough elasticity to get the sock on and off.

Elizabeth Zimmerman’s Sewn bind off:

Break yarn, leaving a tail at least 3 times longer than the edge you are binding off. Thread yarn tail on a tapestry needle, and work as follows:

*Draw tapestry needle through first 2 sts on knitting needle purlwise, bring tapestry needle around front of second st on knitting needle and draw back through first st knitwise, drop first st from knitting needle. Repeat from * until all sts are bound off.

When doing two socks on 2 circular needles the bind off can get tricky at the end of a sock when you can’t get to the next stitches, so I usually place the stitch waiting for a mate on a safety pin and then begin the bind off on the next sock. When I get back to the first sock I place the held stitch back on the appropriate needle and finish the bind off for the first sock.

CHART for CABLE: Seed and cable Chart I don’t have a key for it but the written version should help!

 

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About tinagreta

"Face the facts of being what you are, for that is what changes what you are." Soren Kierkegaard I am a woman, wife, mom, elder, counselor, avid knitter and friend. I write here as a way to process my thought, ideas and to showcase my knitting designs/FOs. My goal in life is to live authentically before my God...to love Jesus and people well. I am a work in process so I reserve the right to change my mind on things I write about :)

6 responses »

  1. Your socks are lovely. I’ve been itching to try a cable sock and this one just could be it. Thanks much for the patterns. Best regards.

  2. Pingback: A New Passion – Knitting Knee High Socks!

    • I just uploaded the chart. I didn’t originally post it because I didn’t make a key and right now I don’t have time to add it but between the written instructions and the chart it should be decipherable…if you run into problems let me know!

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